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Jan Długosz (mountaineer)
Jan Długosz (July 12, 1929, Warsaw,〔facsimile of three documents on pages 285-286 of the 1994 edition of ''Komin Pokutników'' (see Bibliography)〕 Poland - July 2, 1962 in High Tatras) was a Polish mountaineer and writer. He lived in Kraków (South Poland). In 1961 he participated in the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc by British-Polish team (with Don Whillans, Chris Bonington and Ian Clough).
== Career ==
Długosz became the leading Polish climber in the mid-1950s due to his significant climbs in Tatras, including the two hardest one (at the date, and needing new aid equipment) routes in 1955 (so called ''Wariant R'' on the Mnich, with Andrzej Pietsch, and the left side of Kazalnica, with Czesław Momatiuk). He made the first winter ascents (also demanding innovative tactics and techniques) of the hugest walls in Polish Tatras (1956, 1957).
He successfully climbed in the Alps (in 1957, the eighth overall ascent of the west face of Aiguille du Dru, with Momatiuk and Stanisław Biel), in 1960 Grand Capucin and 1961, attempt to Eiger and in August 1961 the 1st ascent of the Central pillar of Frêney, considered then as 'The last problem of the Alps' which had seen a month earlier the tragic Bonatti-Mazeaud drama in which they lost 4 of their companions) and in Caucasus (1958 Ullu-Tau, 1959 Dykh-Tau and Shkhara).
抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』
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